Adopting a shiny new outlook

Long-time habitues of this space know that there’s no simple pleasure of which we’re more fond than the shoeshine. Few services yield as much satisfaction per dollar spent.

There are a handful of shoeshine parlors near our place of employ, but all but one, Louis Shoe Rebuilders, are dead to us now. This delightful shop, situated on the ground floor of the Empire State Building on the 33rd Street side (honestly, couldn’t we just stop right there? What more could anyone ask of a shine emporium than that it be located in the Empire State Building? But there’s much more to recommend LSR), has been in business since a decade before that storied favorite skyscraper was erected.

Heck, Louis Shoe Rebuilders predates talking pictures by six years. It opened in 1921, relocated while the ESB was erected, and then returned to 33rd Street when the construction was complete.

And yet, as with most neighborhood shine parlors, the prices remain improbably—almost impossibly—low. Had my grandfather ever made his way from Okemah, Oklahoma, to the Murray Hill section of Manhattan back in the 1920s, he would have been charged a quarter for a shoeshine. Today, the tariff is $3, which, allowing for inflation, is virtually the same price.

Consider, by contrast, the cost of a haircut and a shave. In the old days, a tonsorial two-fer ran you the same quarter one paid for a shine (remember that old jingle, “Shave and a haircut—two bits”?). Today, at the barber shop we patronize every two weeks, a shave and a haircut costs $32, tip not included—and that’s a bargain price in our neighborhood. What was the 1921 equivalent of thirty-two smackeroos? Just under three dollars. So while the price of a shave and a haircut, even allowing for inflation, has increased tenfold, while price of a shine has remained, in relative terms, level.

It’s downright miraculous.

What’s more, we very rarely find a shoe shine man (or woman) who isn’t friendly and engaging (and our experience at Louis lived up to that trend), which only heightens the pleasure taken from the experience.

As does the chance to be a relative sport, when it comes to the gratuity. Who wouldn’t pay six dollars, and happily so, for a quality shoe shine at a venerable shop the likes of Louis Shoe Rebuilders? No one but a mean-spirited cheapskate, that’s who, and that six dollars covers the price of the shine, plus a 100% percent tip.

When was the last time you tipped a bartender or a waiter 100%? Perhaps you never have. Well, you can enjoy that rarefied experience at your friendly neighborhood shoeshine stand.

The shine service at Louis is handled these days by Maria and Bolivar Gomez, a married couple in their forties who emigrated to the United States from Ecuador.

When we immediately snapped a couple of photos upon entering the shop, Bolivar shot us a glance that we weren’t quite certain wasn’t askance, so we paused and asked permission, fearing we’d made a misstep. He shrugged his shoulders, as if to say, “Take a picture if you like,” but he seemed none too happy about it. And when we stepped up and took a seat at one of the shine stations, he asked, “How many pictures did you take?”

“Just two,” we said.

“Ten dollars, please,” he said, totally deadpan.

However, Maria’s giggle gave him away immediately, and he quickly apologized for the prank.

As the pictures in the above slidshow confirm, entering Louis Shoe Rebuilders isn’t like stepping into a time machine. The shop’s got a classic look to it, but not an especially vintage one—except for one feature: Along the wall on the left as you enter is a line of small booths that each looks something like a witness stand in a courtroom.

These booths serve the purpose of affording customers—especially female patrons—and their stocking feet some privacy as they await the return of their shoes after as-you-wait repairs are performed.

Needless to say, we immediately fell in love with that row of small booths, and with this shop. And so will you, if you’ll make it a point to stop by the next time you’re in New York.

A picture of Louis Shoe Rebuilding's shine stations

You missed a spot

Our day job (hard as it is to believe, our efforts here at Cladrite Radio are not sufficiently rewarding as to allow us to avoid holding down a bill-paying gig) is in an office building a mere stone’s throw from the Empire State Building, our favorite NYC skyscraper (it’s a tie, actually, between the ESB and the Chrysler Building, depending upon which day you ask us).

So we thought it appropriate we share with you this snippet of video that documents—one might even say celebrates—the men (it was just men in those days) who kept that beloved structure’s hundreds of windows clean back in the late 1930s. A daunting task, we’re certain you’ll agree, and not one suited to the faint of heart.

King Kong was the least of it

Some months ago, underemployed and frustrated at not landing any of the office jobs we’d pursued, we took the NYC Department of Consumer Affairs tour guide licensing exam.

Empire State Building

We hadn’t studied at all—a friend who’d worked in the industry thought we could pass it without too much trouble, and bless his heart, he was right.

But we found it almost as hard to find tour guide work as jobs in our own field—we got hired at one point, but a scheduling issue (and a bonkers, ill-tempered supervisor) caused that offer to go up in flames.

Not before we spent more than twenty hours taking copious notes as we rode the company’s hop-on, hop-off double-decker tour buses during the dog days of late July and August, preparing ourselves for the shifts we thought we were about to come our way.

One story we were intent upon sharing with the tourists who would have boarded our bus, had things come together, was the day in 1945—July 28, it was—when a B-52 aircraft crashed smack dab into the Empire State Building, then the tallest structure in the world.

It’s a remarkable event to consider, really—especially from our current vantage point, given the events of September 11, 2001.

The bomber, piloted by Lieutenant Colonel William Franklin, Jr., collided with the north face of the skyscraper between the 79th and 80th floors. Fortunately, it was on a Saturday, so the building was relatively empty. Still, 14 people died (including Lt. Col. Franklin and his crew). The fire was put out in 40 minutes, and the building was open and operating again (though some floors were closed, natch) just two days later.

One engine detached from the plane upon impact, traveling through the building and coming out the other side before finally landing on the roof of a building on the next block. The other engine fell down an elevator shaft.

Speaking of falling down an elevator shaft, July 28 proved to be an especially eventful day for one Betty Lou Oliver, a building employee. She was working that Saturday as an attendant on the 80th floor and when the plane struck, she was thrown off her feet and burned badly.

Trauma enough for the most stalwart among us, but it got worse for Betty Lou. Rescue workers got to her and were lowering her to the ground floor in an elevator, but they were unaware that the cables had been weakened due to the crash. The cables snapped and Oliver plunged 75 floors to the basement of the building.

Oliver naturally suffered serious injuries, but she survived and eventually returned to ride the elevator again. One simply must get back on the horse when thrown, we suppose.

We’d never before seen a picture of the Empire State Building after the crash, and were intrigued to come across the one above, which was taken by photographer Ernie Sisto from the 90th floor. It’s said he asked two other newsmen to hang onto his legs as he dangled out the window to get the shot.

We also found the following newsreel footage of interest, and thought you might, too.

A thousand million billion points of light

The Empire State Building remains one of our favorite New York City icons. Even after 28 years living in Manhattan, there are occasions, when we’re out for a stroll on a crisp autumn evening, that we look up at that grand old structure and think, “Wow—we live in New York City!”

We especially love the fact that you can look up and see flash bulbs going off from the observation deck on the 108th floor. It warms our heart to see these small bursts of illumination; we feel a kind of connection to those tourists from every corner of the globe, situated as they are high above the greatest city in the world, capturing memories that will last a lifetime.

How many flashes have gone off from that platform over the past eighty years? Millions? Billions?

Those little flashes also makes us chuckle, of course, since they accomplish precisely nothing. It would take a terribly powerful flash, indeed, to reach out from the top of the Empire State Building and illuminate the vast city below, or even a small patch of it.

You can see the flashes of light we’re referring to in the video below, if you look closely and watch carefully.

Enjoy.